The A-Z Of Greenhouse Heating

Heating a greenhouse in colder months protects tender plants from frost and opens up winter growing. Because energy isn’t cheap, here’s an A–Z of simple, cost-effective tips to keep things efficient.

26 Simple Ways to Heat a Greenhouse (A–Z)

A — Automatic Temperature Control

Use a greenhouse heater with a built-in thermostat for set-and-forget control. Some electric models (e.g., tubular heaters) need an external thermostat. Traditional paraffin heaters are manual on/off.

B — Bottled Gas (Propane)

Propane gas heaters come in sizes for domestic greenhouses, usually with thermostats and frost-stat settings, push-button ignition, and flame-failure safety.

C — Choose the Right Setpoint

Don’t overheat. For frost-free, aim ~2 °C / 36 °F. For overwintering tender plants or plugs, ~7 °C / 45 °F. Many heaters include a frost-stat to make this easy.

D — Distribute Warm Air

A fan heater helps move warm air evenly, reducing cold spots and stagnant pockets that invite disease.

E — Electric Fan Heaters

Plug-and-play, efficient, and typically thermostat-controlled. The fan quickly circulates heat around the space.

F — Frost-Stat Setting

Look for a frost-stat mode so the heater maintains a temperature just above freezing without constant tweaking.

G — Gas Heat = CO₂ Boost

Gas heaters warm the space and generate plant-friendly CO₂ as a by-product.

H — Heated Trays & Benches

Use propagators, hot benches or heated trays to deliver bottom heat to seeds/seedlings without heating the whole house.

I — Insulate the Structure

Proper insulation can cut heat loss dramatically. Use UV-stabilised bubble insulation (e.g., Heatsheets) rather than household bubble wrap.

J — Just Plug It In

Electric heaters are the easiest to control. Built-in thermostats cycle on/off automatically; fans spread heat evenly.

K — kW Matters

kW (kilowatts) = power draw. 1 kW = 1000 W. Use it to estimate running costs from your electricity tariff.

L — Low-Wattage Background Heat

Electric tubular heaters provide gentle background warmth; pair with a thermostat for control. Use single or multiple in rows.

M — Mend Before Winter

Fix cracked panes and gaps before insulating to prevent draughts (all-weather tape can temporarily seal cracks).

N — Natural Gas Heaters

Natural gas heaters are thermostatic, odour-free and suitable for greenhouse environments.

O — Only Heat What You Use

Group plants and create a partition “zone” with bubble insulation. Heating a smaller zone saves energy.

P — Paraffin Options

Paraffin heaters work where there’s no mains power and add CO₂. Monitor ventilation and moisture.

Q — Quiet Fans

Most electric fan heaters run quietly enough for conservatories or attached garden rooms.

R — Roof Vents Still Matter

Even in winter, occasional venting refreshes air and limits condensation. If insulated, cut neatly around vents so they still open.

S — Save with Fleece

On very cold nights, cover crops with garden fleece to gain a few degrees without cranking the heater. Remove by day for light.

T — Thermometers (Max/Min)

Use a max/min thermometer to see lows/highs and adjust your settings intelligently.

U — Use a Thermostat

Set the heater to kick in only below your chosen threshold — fewer spikes, less waste.

V — Ventilation vs. Condensation

Warm, humid air = fungal risk. Crack a louvre or vent during the day to clear moisture; close again in the evening.

W — Winter Crops

With heat, you can germinate and harvest through winter: try new potatoes for Christmas, lettuce in grow bags or beds, and potted herbs indoors.

X — X Marks the Spot

Place heaters centrally and away from foliage. Floor-level for bench-grown plants, or suspended units in busy houses — avoid blasting plants directly.

Y — Year-Round Use

The same heater that keeps plants frost-free in winter can raise temps for spring seed sowing and propagation.

Z — Zero Degrees = Frost

Frost hits tender growth hardest in spring. Keep things frost-free with insulation, garden fleece, or a heater on frost-stat.